
For decades, some of the most heavily embellished gowns in Dolly Parton’s touring wardrobe carried the name of a man who did not live to see the new millennium.
Tony Chase took over her wardrobe styling in 1987. At the time, Parton was launching her ABC television variety show, *Dolly*, and stepping firmly into a new level of Hollywood visibility. She needed a designer who understood her country roots but could elevate her image to match the scale of a prime-time television broadcast.
Before Chase, Parton’s wardrobe had largely been defined by the vibrant, often self-directed Nashville styles of the 1970s and early 1980s. Her entrance into Los Angeles television required a shift. Chase provided that exact balance, bringing a distinctly theatrical, high-fashion approach to her closet.
The ABC variety show demanded an exhausting creative pace. Across 22 episodes, Parton hosted a wildly diverse roster of guests, requiring multiple wardrobe changes per taping. Chase built a wardrobe department that could turn out custom couture on a weekly television schedule. He designed modest, rustic gingham dresses for her bluegrass segments and then spent hundreds of hours hand-beading elaborate evening gowns for her closing numbers.
He understood the complex architecture required for a Dolly Parton outfit. The garments had to do more than sparkle under studio lights. They had to be constructed with heavy reinforcement to support the weight of the glass beads and rhinestones, while remaining comfortable enough for her to sing, move, and play guitar.
Parton often noted that wearing a Tony Chase creation felt like putting on a protective layer. He gave her the tailored confidence she needed to navigate the Los Angeles entertainment industry during a period of massive mainstream crossover.
Under his direction, her aesthetic shifted from traditional Nashville flash to a golden era of modern glamour. This visual evolution helped push her onto the pages of Vogue and Vanity Fair. When she hosted Saturday Night Live in April 1989, Chase designed the wardrobe that carried her through the monologue and the live comedy sketches.
Their collaboration reached its cinematic peak in 1992 when Chase served as the costume designer for the feature film *Straight Talk*. He built the entire visual identity for her character, Shirlee Kenyon, blending small-town Arkansas denim with Chicago radio host sophistication.
For the film, Chase created pearl-studded jackets, tailored blouses, and rhinestoned outerwear that perfectly matched the character’s upward trajectory. The movie cemented their creative partnership as one of the most effective and trusting relationships of her career.
That partnership ended abruptly in 1994. Chase passed away from complications of HIV/AIDS. His death came during a period when the artistic communities in Los Angeles and New York were losing a staggering number of creators to the epidemic. Parton lost a close confidant and the primary architect of her most visually defining Hollywood years.
In the entertainment industry, custom wardrobes from past eras are often sold, auctioned off, or locked away in dark archival facilities. Parton made a different choice. She meticulously preserved the Western suits, the heavily beaded gowns, and the custom jackets Chase had built for her during their seven years together.
She did not just keep them behind glass in her museum exhibits at Dollywood. She kept them in her active touring rotation. Well into the 2000s, Parton was still pulling Tony Chase designs from her closet for red carpet appearances and live stage shows. Fans who attended her concerts decades later were often looking at the exact garments Chase had pinned and tailored in his Los Angeles studio in the late 1980s.
The pieces were built with such high-quality construction that they withstood years of travel and stage wear. Every time the theater lights hit the rhinestones on those older dresses, Chase’s craftsmanship was put back on display.
He only had seven years to design for her. She made sure his work outlasted his lifetime, letting his art continue to shine exactly where he built it to be seen.